climber, speaker, author, guide

When we first did an exploratory expedition down there in 2023, our team was blown away by the unspoiled beauty of Bolivia. From the peak of Huayna Potosi to  lake Titicaca, the scenery was just too much for us to drink in one outing. So, we return. We will be in country for twelve days. During this time we will acclimate. La Paz is the highest capital city in the world and you will feel that 12 thousand feet immediately. So easy does it. The first few days will be exploring this cultural mecca from the fish markets to the cable car system that criss crosses the entire metropolis. Our first acclimatization hike will be on Austria Peak where we likely will camp along the beautiful lake at its base. After a few days rest we will be taking on Charquini where we dial in roped glacier travel in preparation for Huayna Potosi. A side trip to Lake Titicaca is recommended before we take off for the first base camp on the mountain. From there we climb two thousand feet to the second and final high camp. After a night's rest, we leave in the middle of the night when the glacier is firm, don helmet, ice axe and crampons for our summit bid.  Our expert local guides cook for us and lead us into the night. If the weather is good and your preparation is sharp, we should reach the summit of this stunning 19k mountain by daybreak. This is a big day, but remember, the summit is only halfway. Save energy for the descent which will see us hopefully returning all the way back to the comfort of our hotel and a nice shower.

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Included:  all gear and expert local guides. Breakfast daily, all meals on the mountain (lunch and snacks are your responsibility during day hikes, not on Huayna Potosi). Transportation to the hikes and climbs. All lodging and the support of John Quillen during the expedition. Ten days, land only $2500 (more detailed itinerary will be found here in January.)​

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Who is this trip for? Physically fit hikers, bikers and climbers. If you have wondered about high altitude mountaineering, this is a great place to test yourself. You will know before we get to Huayna Potosi how your body will respond to the thinner air. We will have several "bail out" points along this trip so if you are worried about the big summit, relax.  You have the option of staying in the comfort of La Paz if anything comes up. Email me with any questions. johnquillenatcomast.net  (remove the at and replace with @)

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Itinerary:

Bolivia. We have set the dates in country for June 6-18.  This should give us time to acclimate and begin our day hikes to Austria peak and Charquini before moving to base camp on Huayna Potosi. In terms of itinerary, it is evolving with regard to specific days but will look roughly like this:

 

Day 1:  Arrive in La Paz. Relax in your private room in a new, boutique hotel in the center of the old town in the Witch Market. Take the cable cars to explore this magnificent city and walk about to get your body used to the thin air. Visit museums, eat Llama meat (you have to give it a try) and meet your fellow team mates.

 

Day 2: . An early start as our plan is to drive up past El Alto and begin a hike to the base of Austria Peak and set up camp. Our local guides will pick us up after breakfast (included). It is about two hours to get to our camping spot. We will try to overnight there along the beautiful lake at its base then tackle the summit.  Austria Peak is probably one of my favorite hikes in all South America. The views of Huayna Potosi, Charquini and the interior Andes peaks is absolutely stunning. This is a great shakedown run.

 

 

Day 3: Climb to summit of Austria Peak at 17 thousand feet. Descend back to La Paz and rest. Here are some photos from our last ascent. This is a video from the summit.

 

Day 4: Rest day. Walk around town, ride a mountain bike on the Death Road downhill, perhaps. Go rafting, rock climbing. Take a side trip over to Lake Titicaca, an absolutely gorgeous experience.  The options are endless.

 

Day 5: After breakfast we will walk over to our local guide service shop and get fitted for our climbing gear. This includes crampons, boots, ice axes, helmet and harness. I will go over a gear list you will need to bring from home but all the technical equipment is included. You will need clothing but don't worry. What you don't have, we can rent for you. I will go over gear later when we have a team meeting prior to departure. We load up in the vans and take off for an ascent of Charquini. Charquini is glaciated which will be the first time some of you have the experience of roped glacier travel. Our guides will "show you the ropes". It is exciting to be mountaineering and this is a fun summit with a lenghty approach. It is a long day, so we return to La Paz for some rest.

 

Day 6: Rest

 

Day 8: drive to Huayna Potosi base camp. The actual climb on Huayna Potosi involves a drive up to base camp and overnight at the hut. Weather permitting we will climb up to the high camp in the morning and settle into our accommodation there with our trusty local guides, the best on the mountain.

 

Day 8: Hike from HP base camp to High Camp. This takes a couple of hours and you will be carrying your gear for the only time on this trip, aside from what you take in your pack on summit day and dayhikes. If you would like to pay a porter to carry your gear to high camp, let me know. 

 

Day 9: Summit (hopefully)  and back to La Paz.

 

Day 10: Contingency summit/weather day

 

Day 11: Return for last night in La Paz

 

Day 12: End of service, flight back to US or other South American destination.

 

Here is a list of recommended vaccinations for Bolivia. https://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/destinations/traveler/none/bolivia

 

That is all for now. Please don't be afraid to ask questions. We will try to have a team meet and greet sometime before the holidays.  This trip is looking to fill up quickly so be sure to secure your spot. I'm excited to share this part of the world with you.

-John